Friday, April 30, 2010
Thursday, April 29, 2010
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Please forgive my ramblings I know I don't make sense from time to time, however there is one point I feel has been gone over looked for far too long.
I wish I didn't sound like a complete jerk; however I have only seen one other person hang heels in my entire life. I understand that to most, this isn't a big deal. To me however, It makes me sick to my stomach to think that the majority of surfers that surf in North Carolina look towards Kelly Slater or Jordy Smith, not that they aren't two of the best surfers in the world right now or that they are a bad inspiration. I just feel like the Atlantic Ocean has a lot more to offer than it is given recognition for.
Any who instead of trying to be the next big thing on a tri fin, I would really like to see a kid in my area try to be the next Lance Carson, Joel Tudor or who knows maybe even the next Al Knost or Tyler Warren.
I strongly believe that east coast surfing is around 15 to 20 years behind that of the west. Not in the boards that are ridden but the mindset of the majority in my area. It might be because I haven't lived enough, it may be because I haven't traveled enough to see a progression, or it maybe the fact that I am living in a state that is more well known for farming and NASCAR than the neoclassical movement in surfing. Either way I'm getting rather tired of the amount of people on 6'0" thrusters that don't know what they are doing in North Carolina right now.
Those of you that are keeping it real here on the east coast, I admire you.
Well this summer i have to do a project for my fiberglass boat building class. Seeing as I don't have the money or the motivation to make a boat over 10 feet I've decided to commit to a surfboard. I've decided the rough shape, the fin set up, not so much. The waves here in Wilmington, North Carolina are sustainable at best. Its all mushy beach break, unless it's herrican' season. I would really appreciate some advice on the fin setup.
I got a call yesterday from my mom who told me some bad news. My aunt, who has been fighting brain cancer for the past year, isn't doing well and is expected to pass in the next couple of days. Its has been a pretty emotional past couple of years for my family with my grandfather passing last year my grandmother finding out she has myeloma which is a blood cancer and shortly after my aunt finding out she had a tumor in her brain on her own daughters wedding day. She began treatment soon after finding out and shortly after that, had a stroke, but still she kept on going. These past couple of months we knew that she wasn't doing well, since then we've been playing the waiting game. My heart and prayers go out to my moms brother and my cousins and they're families.
As I was surfing yesterday evening a huge black cloud came over. The wind picked up and rain started pouring down. I decided since I couldn't hear any thunder or see any flashes of lightning, I'd try to wait it out. The rain lasted about 15 minutes and the clouds went straight out to sea. Waiting on a wave to come, on the horizon two huge rainbows formed right on top of each other, it was crazy. I feel like whenever something heavy happens in my life there is always a way a simple paddle out that can change my mood in an instant. I think that is why I love surfing so much, there is nothing else in the world that I have found that can move me in such a way.
Sunday, April 25, 2010
Mark, Marissa, and Renee holding it down at the UNCW surfrider tent.
Thrust Clothing's live for life 2 event was yesterday. I helped out for a little bit and enjoyed some good music, epic skating, and hip art. The event was to help save the life of a little kid from South America who needs heart surgery. Last years event was a success when they were able to help out Patrick from Uganda with two heart surgery's.
Thursday, April 22, 2010
Today was a search for waves. With perfect weather and off shore winds the only thing lacking were the waves. I ended up checking everywhere and finally settled on an empty lot. Nothing great but enough to have some fun.
Also we'd like to introduce, new mascot for the ASM crew, Snappy McSnapperton who we found running around our backyard this afernoon.
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Monday, April 19, 2010
Sunday, April 18, 2010
It's easy sometimes when you just coast along
But like it or not something always seems to go wrong
Sometimes people build you up just so they can knock you down
Sometimes they will have you there 'cause they need someone around
Perhaps you'll receive invitations for tea
Perhaps you'll laugh and make them all smile
Or maybe you'll join them 'cause it had to be
Perhaps you'll forget you forgot for awhile
Birds of a feather are flocking outside
Like whippets they dance in a curly-queue dance
Of pulses and ringing and campfire chants
Of ritual drumming although at first glance
You thought you could run but you won't take a chance
It's not an experience if they can't bring someone along
They hang on emotions they bottle inside
They peck at the ground
And strut out of stride
Super bored right now just waiting on the tide and wind to chill the fuck out. I really need to fix the tail on my fish, asymmetrical tails can be cool when they are on purpose, mine however is not. Evening session on the way please and thank you.
Saturday, April 17, 2010
Thursday, April 15, 2010
The waves and wind were working so well together yesterday that I'm surprised that there weren't more guys out filming. It was the typical Wrightsville Beach surf scenario. One guy on the beach because the waves weren't good enough to go out and the wind was blowing a steady 15 knots straight down the beach. All of his buddies out in the water paddling they're hearts out trying to stay in front of the camera occasionally taking a wave and then walking back up the beach to ask if he "got that last ride." Still feeling the stoke from the day before I decided to take my fish out for a couple. I haven't ridden a shortboard in a little over a month due to lack of waves. So needless to say my first couple of waves were trying to get used to a board missing three feet with only two fins. Third wave a nice lined up left with a little section at the end, got dropped in on right at the end. Finally I dropped into a right, got two turns in and went on in. But we had waves and thats all that I can ask for. Looks like we have a little wave today I'm going to try and get out at some point.
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
I saw this picture on See Wach's site I guess its the newest ALB cover. I first saw a picture of Joe Aaron doing this maneuver. I haven't seen anyone successfully come back off of the nose walking on they're hands back to the tail, and straight into a nice drop elbow cutback though. I think this truly is the way of the future for longboarding. Although I don't think i'll be doing any handstands on my board anytime soon.
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
I had some pretty fun waves today on my 9'4". Its been building the past couple of days so hopefully we'll have some for the next couple of days. The water is feeling really good right now. I went out today without gloves or boots and was getting a little too warm in my 4/3.
Thursday, April 8, 2010
Finally finished with my first handplane. We should have some waves tomorrow to try it out.
This video on Cyrus Sutton's Korduroy.tv really inspired me to commit and try to make my own handplane. He has a great site with tons of vids that you should check out if you haven't already. I've always thought a true surfer is someone who can go to the beach and have fun in the ocean no matter what the conditions are, and it seems Cyrus knows how to have some fun the water. Thanks to guys like Cyrus and Tom Wegener, to name a few, people are starting to remember that surfing is supposed to be fun. A lot of surfers that I see around the beaches of North Carolina seem like they are trying too hard to catch up to what they see in the surfing mags and not trying hard enough to find new fun ways of gettin in the water. I just hate to see a hoard of guys all out on they're 6'0" thrusters in the regular knee high waves we get around here paddling all day long; but maybe thats they're way of having fun in the ocean. It doesn't look like fun to me.
Wednesday, April 7, 2010
Tuesday, April 6, 2010
I woke up this morning feeling very crafty so after my shower and cup o coffee I ran to one of the many local pawn shops. I found an old porter cable jigsaw with an old dull blade in it. After running home I did some research on Handplane Goodness made a template and started cutting on an old p o s skateboard i attempted to make in high school. I can't wait to start foiling it and eventually getting it in the water. I'll try to document my journey along the way.
Sunday, April 4, 2010
Don't ask me how it happened, I don't know. I Found this picture on the local surf report site and thought it was hilarious. The weather has been so nice and warm lately (minus the pollen). Just last week I was able to loose the gloves. I think I'm going to keep the boots for another week or so. I don't want this to happen to me.