Thursday, April 15, 2010

"Did You See My Last Wave?"

The waves and wind were working so well together yesterday that I'm surprised that there weren't more guys out filming. It was the typical Wrightsville Beach surf scenario. One guy on the beach because the waves weren't good enough to go out and the wind was blowing a steady 15 knots straight down the beach. All of his buddies out in the water paddling they're hearts out trying to stay in front of the camera occasionally taking a wave and then walking back up the beach to ask if he "got that last ride." Still feeling the stoke from the day before I decided to take my fish out for a couple. I haven't ridden a shortboard in a little over a month due to lack of waves. So needless to say my first couple of waves were trying to get used to a board missing three feet with only two fins. Third wave a nice lined up left with a little section at the end, got dropped in on right at the end. Finally I dropped into a right, got two turns in and went on in. But we had waves and thats all that I can ask for. Looks like we have a little wave today I'm going to try and get out at some point.

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I'd like to help keep style alive in North Carolina.