Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Please forgive me...
Please forgive my ramblings I know I don't make sense from time to time, however there is one point I feel has been gone over looked for far too long.
I wish I didn't sound like a complete jerk; however I have only seen one other person hang heels in my entire life. I understand that to most, this isn't a big deal. To me however, It makes me sick to my stomach to think that the majority of surfers that surf in North Carolina look towards Kelly Slater or Jordy Smith, not that they aren't two of the best surfers in the world right now or that they are a bad inspiration. I just feel like the Atlantic Ocean has a lot more to offer than it is given recognition for.
Any who instead of trying to be the next big thing on a tri fin, I would really like to see a kid in my area try to be the next Lance Carson, Joel Tudor or who knows maybe even the next Al Knost or Tyler Warren.
I strongly believe that east coast surfing is around 15 to 20 years behind that of the west. Not in the boards that are ridden but the mindset of the majority in my area. It might be because I haven't lived enough, it may be because I haven't traveled enough to see a progression, or it maybe the fact that I am living in a state that is more well known for farming and NASCAR than the neoclassical movement in surfing. Either way I'm getting rather tired of the amount of people on 6'0" thrusters that don't know what they are doing in North Carolina right now.
Those of you that are keeping it real here on the east coast, I admire you.