Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Don't know if you've ever had the pleasure of riding behind a pig truck. If you haven't just imagine following four port o john trucks filled to maximum capacity. Unfortunately a normal site and smell for those of us who drive on NC-40E or W.
Gracie thought I was spending too much time on my computer and not enough time petting her. She was right.
Finding that line+proper board positioning=Speed and maybe even a smile
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Monday, June 28, 2010
The other week I put a picture up of myself surfing my 9'6" Eavey. Didn't really think about it too much. The picture was taken a couple of years ago by my good friend Robert Chestnut on one really crappy afternoon on Ocracoke Island in the Outer Banks. Then last friday, feeling really bummed about cutting my foot open one of my friends asked if I was surfing that morning at the south end of Wrightsville Beach I told him about my recent injury and how I hadn't been able to surf for a couple of days. Later that day someone else asked the same question. He told me of the morning surf report on wblivesurf.com that day. I didn't really think anything of it at the time. I mean I have been surfing the south end this year a bunch but I make sure to always wear my leash no matter how many times it gets tangled around my legs, feet, arms, i've even had it wrap around my head after bailing on some shorebreak, because it is the law here. The more I started thinking about it the more it kind of bothered me. I know that there are people out there with red and white boards with yellow birdwells not wearing leashes all over the world, but on WB there is probably only one other person that I just haven't met yet that seems to have a similar sense of style that I do. I just thought it was really funny that they would call someone out like that on the internet like that in such detail.
One more thing. Since we have surf zones here in Wrightsville Beach, if you find yourself in a swim zone with a surfboard you'll be called out in a second and make sure to have something for your ear when they get done chewing you out; however everyday, people get all upset that there little Timmy or Susan got too close to a surfboard because they were splashing around in the surf zones. It is soo frustrating when your doing the right thing by being in the surf zone with your kook cord just to find that you have 25 people frolicking in the water feet in front of you when the "swim zone" completely empty with no one in it. There just isn't something right about that. Maybe its just me.
Saturday, June 26, 2010
I just really wanted to see how sharp that oyster was. I've been out of the water since Wednesday. I just got done with two SUP lessons thanks to some super glue and duct tape. Just trying to keep it clean and out of the water for the fastest recovery so that I can cause we finally have some waves.
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Mini Simmons on the rack.
Pins, check. Almost ready for some nasal explorations.
Stopped by Greg Eavey's shop today to talk boards and drums and hopefully get a blank soon. I took a few pics too getting some film developed right now.
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
We have waves! I got the log out for some nasal exploration and the hand plane out for some nasal draining. Fun times, hopefully more to come this week!
Monday, June 21, 2010
I was really bored tonight so I started Google Earthing. I was looking at Malibu when I spotted this just down the coast. I know that the United States relies on imported products and ports to help keep us going; but I can only imagine what this bit of coast looked like before "the man" got hold of it. I'm sure it was green and sandy and wildlife flourished. I just feel like as one of the worlds most prominent countries we could find a way of producing the majority of our own goods instead of relying on ships to bring us things that we could just as easily make right here in our own country. If we did who knows we just might bring a few jobs to the thousands of people who don't have any right know that we complain about all the time for stealing and living on the streets. And help clean up OUR world with reducing carbon emissions.
Unfortunately I know that will never happen. At least not in my children or grand children's lifetime. So do what you can even though the corporations running your country say that they do but don't.
On a lighter note it looks like Madison Dyer is putting a new movie soon. So keep your ear to your keyboard to find out when and where.
Sunday, June 20, 2010
I've been waiting for this movie to come out for a while now. I really like Pickles style and the fact that he rides everything. If your like me click HERE to go to J. Smart films website or thetylerwarrenexperiments.blogspot.com for updates. Hopefully it will come out soon. I also know that JJ Wessels is supposed to be coming out with a film soon.
Saturday, June 19, 2010
Friday, June 18, 2010
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Had an old Takayama pivot fin laying around. It was all chipped up and i had never really loved the way it rode on the waves around here. So I got my sander out and went away. I just wanted to reduce some area and give it a little bit of flex. After covering my arms in volan glass dust, this was the end result. I slapped her in my 9'6" and took her out in some knee slappers and ended having a blast. Still noserides like a dream and makes turning a bit easier.
Ran into Greg Eavey in the water the other day. He was riding an 8'0" Simmons which he was ripping on in the knee high conditions. He's been making a bunch of them lately so if your in the area keep an eye out for his pocket rockets and logs. I have a magic noserider he made me a couple of years ago that I just can't get rid of. The picture above is one of his creations a 10'2" with a big ol d fin glassed on it
Back when I was a dirty hippy on my Eavey Rider.
Stop taking yourself so seriously and watch this video. You just might smile maybe even laugh.
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
YES! I love not being able to surf for a week because there are literally no waves to ride in the whole state! I find it gives me the chance to catch up on my sitting around the apartment trying to find something to do, time.
There arn't a hull lot of guys around here riding hulls and only a few making them. Probably cause we only have short beach break waves around these parts. I wouldn't know from experience but it seems that you have to have a good amount of style just to be able to ride one properly which I really like.
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
takes me back to the good old days
Took the Y-Quad out this evening. With epic double over big toe conditions i decided to take the fins out and try to discover the lala. I look forward to sliding some larger waves in the future, it was pretty fun. Looks like its going to be flat for the next week so I must keep busy somehow maybe some hand plane goodness to come.
Sunday, June 13, 2010
very little to compare to than waking up to this out your back window
I'll take one of each please...
AB Surfshop always has the coolest logs in stock. I stopped by last weekend to check out just what they had. Tons of Bings by Zeph What I would do to be able to ride one of those boards. Well actually not a lot but I would really like to ride a Bing before I die. I just wish I had $1300 that I could throw around for a fresh 9'4" with Bing's name on it. They always have some nice Hobie's in stock too. like the Endless Summer model at the top of the picture above, along with a pretty good collection of classic Hobie's too look at around the shop.
oh yeah Daniel Thomson is pushing the limits of surfboard design. So check out what he is doing.
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Saturday, June 5, 2010
Thursday, June 3, 2010
wing king baby!
Looks like its going to be waveless for the next couple of days. I had some fun out this evening on the Y-Quad by catch surf. While I was out I noticed a kite stuck in the water. At first I thought the person was just taking a little break from being pulled by the wind until they came drifting toward the pier I was surfing by. I heard a woman's cry "i'm going to drown!" as I heard this a myself along with couple of guys paddled over and grabbed the line-tangled young woman and started paddling for shore. She was fine, unfortunately she lost her board in the process. I've noticed a lot of kite boarders out near my break lately. Honestly I don't blame them for picking the wind over the waves these past couple of weeks. I just hate to see people out who don't know what they are doing without anyone to help them. Today was the second person in two weeks I've seen loose control of they're kite and come a little too close to the pier. So always kite with a friend if you are going out! For those of you on the west coast who don't need to worry about wind and have waves I wish I was there.
My good friend/current employer Tony Silvagni is out califori-way right now for the next pro longboard event and broke his brand spankin new board Steve Waldin made him.
"In the South, the breeze blows softer...neighbors are friendlier, nosier, and more talkative. (By contrast with the Yankee, the Southerner never uses one word when ten or twenty will do)...This is a different place. Our way of thinking is different, as are our ways of seeing, laughing, singing, eating, meeting and parting. Our walk is different, as the old song goes, our talk and our names. Nothing about us is quite the same as in the country to the north and west. What we carry in our memories is different too, and that may explain everything else."
--Charles Kuralt in "Southerners: Portrait of a People"