Monday, June 28, 2010


The other week I put a picture up of myself surfing my 9'6" Eavey. Didn't really think about it too much. The picture was taken a couple of years ago by my good friend Robert Chestnut on one really crappy afternoon on Ocracoke Island in the Outer Banks. Then last friday, feeling really bummed about cutting my foot open one of my friends asked if I was surfing that morning at the south end of Wrightsville Beach I told him about my recent injury and how I hadn't been able to surf for a couple of days. Later that day someone else asked the same question. He told me of the morning surf report on that day. I didn't really think anything of it at the time. I mean I have been surfing the south end this year a bunch but I make sure to always wear my leash no matter how many times it gets tangled around my legs, feet, arms, i've even had it wrap around my head after bailing on some shorebreak, because it is the law here. The more I started thinking about it the more it kind of bothered me. I know that there are people out there with red and white boards with yellow birdwells not wearing leashes all over the world, but on WB there is probably only one other person that I just haven't met yet that seems to have a similar sense of style that I do. I just thought it was really funny that they would call someone out like that on the internet like that in such detail.

One more thing. Since we have surf zones here in Wrightsville Beach, if you find yourself in a swim zone with a surfboard you'll be called out in a second and make sure to have something for your ear when they get done chewing you out; however everyday, people get all upset that there little Timmy or Susan got too close to a surfboard because they were splashing around in the surf zones. It is soo frustrating when your doing the right thing by being in the surf zone with your kook cord just to find that you have 25 people frolicking in the water feet in front of you when the "swim zone" completely empty with no one in it. There just isn't something right about that. Maybe its just me.

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I'd like to help keep style alive in North Carolina.