Monday, August 30, 2010
Finally got some waves today. I was able to get out for a little while when it was good and a little while when it was bad, and when I mean bad lets just say the WB Police Department doesn't like us very much. All in all its nice to haves waves and Herriken Earl is on the way to send us more aquatic goodness later this week.
Someone Still Loves You Boris Yeltsin just came out with a new album "Let it Sway". These guys never cease to amaze. Since their fist album "Broom" each album since has been better than the last, but somehow still they keep to their melodic and harmonic roots, which I really like. So check it out, if you haven't already.
Saturday, August 28, 2010
We finally have some waves on the way, this week should be fun. There was swell today but it was closing out really bad. I decided to do some body womping and my chin met the sand.
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Saturday, August 21, 2010
Friday, August 20, 2010
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
News comes a little late but it looks like there was some real loggin at the us open this year which is pretty dang awesome. Even David Nuuhiwa made an appearance.
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
I got a few fun ones this weekend.
This past weekend we had a little TS'er off our coast here in the state above South Carolina. I was lucky enough to be in the right place in the right time sharing perfect waves with some awesome people.
The third time I've been able to take out my short board all summer, and had soo much funnn
After surfing for about 7 hours straight, myself and a few friends were sitting on the beach watching the perfect uncrowded waves come in. Out of nowhere a green beach tow truck comes flying up with his lights flashing and slams on the breaks, "I need some boards to come with me, someone is drowning down the beach". I throw my longboard on my roof and three others jump in the back of his truck, we are off. The three in his truck are the first in the water. I jump out of my jeep, grab my board and run to the ripped up ocean. At first glance I see the others paddle for one guy on a boogie board so I go over to two others on matts being tossed in the rip and massive shore break. Once I get my two into shore I realize the others aren't just helping on guy out, there is another one face down being dragged in the water. The hero on the boogie board was the first out to help this guy in. Apparently he went swimming without any flotation device, got caught in a massive rip current, had a heart attack and passed in the water. The paramedics were on the beach as soon as they got in but were unable to bring him back. My heart goes out to his wife and children. It just goes to show the amount of power the ocean has. Its so unfortunate that people don't know what to do when put in that situation. Most of the time they can get help in time but those few times every couple of years they just can't get help in time. I really can't describe the way it feels to go from the highest of highs, surfing perfect waves all day long, to the lowest in a matter of minutes. I am so fortunate to have surfing in my life and I wouldn't change it for anything. I realize how many times I take a simple paddle out for granted.
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Our buddy Reid just got back from 6 weeks in Chile and all he got was this facial hair. Oh yeah he learned some Spanish, surfed some waves and explored the heights as well. Good to have you back Reidles!
(warning): This is Jazz music.
Since I've started surfing I have never gone a whole summer without surfing waves over waist high. This summer in good old reliable Wilmington has seemed to give me a new summer experience! No waves higher than my bellybutton all summer. I'm hoping this weekend will ease my pain. Hopefully heading to the Outer Banks for some real waves for a couple o' days soon.