Wednesday, January 12, 2011
What You Gonna Do?
Yeah John John!
Back in the day the best/most dedicated surfers from California would go to the Islands to find real waves and new challenges. Today if you aren't from California and/or don't prove yourself in those line ups you are basically a no-one in the world of surfing. The surfing Industry today is too wound up in it's self, trying to be marketable to those with money to prolong their habits, whether that be traveling around the world finding perfect waves for themselves, creating trust funds for their grandchildren or maybe just make money for the fact of making money.
It makes me sad to think that surfing has become this marketable. Do you really think the very first people to use the oceans energy to bring them to shore just for the purest form of enjoyment really thought that people just like them would take that same enjoyment and sell it to millions to fund their trips to play golf at turtle bay? Or build a factory in Taiwan to make some shorts that have their name on it just to sell them for 500 times what it took to make to make some money?
I think anyone could answer that themselves, and that answer is NO.
Just like so many others, I believe that John John and other's realize that it is more about "free surfing" and the feeling than turning yourself into a billboard to sell this months newest pair of sunglasses or wetsuit.
So surf for yourself. Even if that means trying new surf crafts to find out what you get the most enjoyment from.
There are soooo many kinds of boards and ways of surfing out there "other than the standard shortboard style that you have been brainwashed to try an aspire to" that you can experience. That is why they were made in the first place, to experience all that your wave has to give to you. No matter what the condition there is a surf craft to accommodate you!